London Fashion Week spring/summer 2014 live blog
London Fashion Week spring/summer 2014 blog: days one and two
All the action from Friday and Saturday at London Fashion Week spring/summer 2014, including Henry Holland's star-packed show, Orla Kiely's safari and the best and strangest beauty moments.
15 September 2013
Part of London Fashion Week spring/summer 2014 Hot Topics
Markus Lupfer spring/summer 2014 show
If you need white separates, you should check out palmer/harding. They'll do you paper white shirts, skirts, shorts, dresses and jackets in mostly cotton, though some come in PVC, and a few had some sky blue touches. There was one bold departure - a head to toe indigo ensemble, but the majority was white as snow. palmer/harding: sponsored by Daz? Nick Barron. Photo: @CFE_London
ISHAM'S ISSUES
Ashley Isham's show got off to a rocky start when attendees were still queuing outside 20 minutes after the scheduled start time, and many priority ticket holders were made to stand when we were eventually let in. Isham says his inspiration was the 1967 film Belle de Jour, the story of a young woman who spends her afternoons as a prostitute while her husband is at work. This contradiction manifested itself in Isham's designs by way of clashing fabrics: dresses had silk fronts and broderie anglaise backs, while PVC capes in garish blue were trimmed with white lace as though in an attempt to feminise them. In some looks the idea of contrast worked well, such as the white tweed dresses worn with blue cloche hats whose mesh panels tipped down over models' faces. But a scarlet silken gown which gave way to a greyish PVC skirt and train trimmed with gold crystals was at best confused, at worst gaudy. The finishing line-up of draped jersey dresses with a smattering of embellishment in taupe, purple and blue were clearly aimed at the red carpet, but truth be told they were more Jennifer Lopez than Jennifer Lawrence. Anna Elliott. Photos: Getty
HARRY'S IN THE HOUSE (OF HOLLAND)
"I've heard Harry Styles is coming." "Is Harry Styles coming?" "Harry Styles is coming." "Harry Styles is HERE!"
Build-up to the House of Holland show mainly went in one direction (sorry, couldn't resist). Say what you want about Henry, he has the best friends. As usual all the obligatory babes packed out his frow: Ellie Goulding, Eliza Doolittle, Alexa Chung, Daisy Lowe, Harley Viera Newton, Pixie Geldof and Leigh Lezark were enjoying a love-in (poor Nicola Roberts was shunned again. Why will no one talk to Nicola?) and the frenzy over Styles's fashionably late arrival even prevented the production team from rolling up the polythene catwalk protector.
Finally some order was established and the show could commence. Holland cited the films 'Mi Vida Loca' and Baz Luhrman's 'Romeo and Juliet' as references, along with the tattoo parlours of Venice Beach. The first few looks showcased neon tattoo appliques on structured shift dresses, skintight leopard print paper skirts and crisp white shirts. There were some fab checkerboard cardigan and skirt combos cinched in with guns n roses style flower-embellished belts and cool hand-painted leather tops emblazoned with the Virgin Mary (nod to Baz). Alexa and co liked the tattoo print silk pyjama sets accessorised with ghetto girl gold hoops and trucker caps.
Ultimately most of the audience seemed fixated by Styles - but at least the most-talked about guest stuck to the theme: his tattoo covered torso may have even have made its way on to Holland's moodboard. Ellie Pithers
FEELING ZEN WITH 1205
"I just want women to feel at ease in my clothes, that's why I concentrate on fabric and cut above all" explained Paula Gerbase, the woman behind 1205. Previously working as a Savile Row head designer, Gerbase brings us modern tailoring at its best.
This season, the inspiration comes from the Japanese philosophy of 'Ma', the idea of negative space to create a moment of calm in which to reflect - just what we need as a busy day two of LFW draws to a close.
The idea was presented through a collection of beautifully tailored pieces with a relaxed fit. Keeping to a restrained colour palette, swathes of cotton tunics, perfectly cut cropped trousers and ribbed knits were occasionally interrupted with a solitary pinstripe here or a missing pocket there. These slight discrepancy create the negative space to ponder the beauty of the fabric and craftsmanship of each piece. Ah, we feel much more zen now. Tallulah Bullock
J.W. ANDERSON'S DOSE OF MEDICINAL SEX APPEAL
'J.W. takes sex and turns it into something medicinal. Nothing wrong with that per se' - read what Lisa Armstrong made of the show and v iew the full collection here
KOMA'S WARRIORS
The David Koma woman has always been undoubtedly strong and fierce (as epitomised by one of his most famous fans, Beyoncé) and judging by this collection, she'll be losing none of her attitude next season.
Koma says his inspiration came from the Japanese art of Kyudo, "a meeting of Samurai martial arts and the spiritual practice of Zen philosophy."
You could certainly see Oriental and warrior-like influences throughout his collection of strong, structured pieces: white dresses in thick, neoprene-like jersey were edged in black leather tape, waistcoats were bound by wide laser-cut obi belts, while jackets held together with strapping had the air of (very chic) armour. Just when the strict black and white palette was in danger of becoming a little monotonous, it gave way to dusty pink pleated skirts and dresses emblazoned with a soft cornflower blue and white print. Koma's signature sexy bodycon dresses were very much in evidence, but so too were sleek trousers with matching longline waistcoats in a bold royal blue, complete with deep pockets - a nice touch. All pieces were very much sharp and structured yet unmistakably feminine. Koma has "envisioned his woman a strong and elegant warrior who dresses by the principles of balance, stillness and control", and we quite want to be her. Anna Elliott
CLEMENTS CLASSICS GO DIGITAL
Clements Ribeiro have had a eureka moment this season and taken the thoroughly modern decision to show their new collection as a short film via their website clementsribeiro.com followed by a series of looks via Instagram.
"While we have been focusing in reaching boutiques and department stores, our online sales grew to represent 60 per cent of our turnover, Net a Porter being our main customers," said Inacio Ribeiro today.
The collection is an upbeat fresh and fruity ode to Rio de Janeiro complete with ferns, parrots, and glorious tropical glamour. Classic Clements Ribeiro and a super smart way to show to an increasingly digital global market. Tamsin Blanchard
MARKUS LUPFER'S TEENY BOPPER BEDROOM
Markus Lupfer's show was less show, more young teenager's bedroom in the Nineties. All Saints played on the stereo, waifish girls tapped on laptops covered with multi-coloured jewel stickers, and others folded origami fortune tellers languidly on the bed.
The clothes? As prim and proper as Suzy from Moonrise Kingdom's, should she have been a young London lady in the Nineties. Bejewelled hair clips matched jewel embellished sandals, while all garments - cut-out minis, jersey jumpers or tailored shorts - were printed with multi-media blooms sliced into uniform squares.
Two girls in semi-sheer white dresses stitched with overgrown blooms were the only duo that broke this square pattern. Oh and the XXL teddy bear on the bed. Alice Newbold
WHISTLES' SAFE SAFARI
The mood of Whistles's S/S '14 collection? African safari. But if you thought everyone's-favourite-high-street-brand had gone all zany on us, forget it. There were distinctly less patterns than this season's camo and tile affair.
By safari, Whistles meant that they had tapped into the feminine colour palette of a Love Bird's plumage (sugar pinks and barely-there mint greens to you or I) and occasionally used faint leopard print patterns on their starched white sporty items. Other than the bucket hats and sliders everything else was distinctly Whistles. And perhaps there was so much snapping from the Frow set because everything there was ultimately wearable, and safe.
Neat summer pinafores, culottes, flamingo feather printed skirt-and-shirt sets and a silver pleated skirt that practically rippled down the catwalk will surely be snapped up next spring.
Oh and of course the pochette will be back. But with a handle and bottom zip. One has to be careful on safari, don't you know. Alice Newbold
HANDS ON HIPS FOR JULIEN
Julien Macdonald's coterie of glamorous belles turned out to support his latest show. Posing with their hands firmly on their hips, Paloma Faith, 'Strictly' contestant Abbey Clancy and Pixie Lott did their best red carpet smoulder. See which other famous faces have been out and about
BIZARRE BEAUTY
"Tesco meets disco, M&S meets S&M" explained the team of artists behind the heavy Cleopatra eye at Ashish. The theme? A glamorous walk of shame through the Dubai Mall. The elongated eye, by make-up artist Sharon Dowsett, was created using three liners of different textures in deep purples and black. The swoosh of gold pressed onto the cheek was a nod to Dubai's favourite metal.
STRICTLY JULIEN
Subtlety isn't a word that seems to register with Julien Macdonald. The new season sign-up to Strictly Come Dancing has clearly been a strong influence for his spring/summer 2014 collection as he sent out gown after gown down the runway. Everything sparkled; from the models' skin to the wool in the cobweb knit dressed and the glitter cannons in the finale. Icy crystal embellished the dresses, jumpsuits and swimsuits, while cutaways also took prominence. The groin-skimming, coccyx-flashing, body-hugging, split-to-the-thigh pieces left no inch of skin unbared. Glitzy, brash and verging on vulgar - but you've got to love it nonetheless. Sophie Warburton. Photo: PA
BEAUTY MOMENT: PURPLE REIGN
They say three's a trend, but we suspect lilac eyes will be big for spring/summer 2014. Spotted at Holly Fulton (in its Seventies-inspired crease to brow grey purple haze, below) and and at Julien Macdonald (in an alien chic elongated and super pearlised finish) we predict some sort of spring purple reign.
LIP-TASTIC AT KRYSTOF STROZYNA
As the weather finally cheered up this afternoon, so did the mood in Freemason's Hall as Krystof Strozyna delivered a fun and poptastic collection inspired entirely by lips. "I'm just completely obsessed with lips, I love the way they're both a strong symbol of sensuality and of pop culture," explained the Polish-born designer.
Everything from the sculptured cut of jackets, to the signature lacquered wood jewellery was inspired by the shape of lips this season. Minimal white and grey shift dresses were peppered with kisses in poptastic yellows, greens and purples, whilst palazzo pant ensembles were silhouetted with ombre prints.
Not usually one for embellishment, Edie-Sedgewick-esque models wore yellow pearls as earrings and on collars. "I never usually use surface decoration, I just found the yellow pearls really made the looks pop!"
Keep an eye out for Krystof Strozyna, he's set to be the name on everyone's lips come spring 2014. Tallulah Bullock
JOHN ROCHA'S ROMANCE
Though you'd expect it to be the other way round, it seems having a daughter heralded as one of the industry's brightest young design talents - Simone Rocha - has rubbed off John Rocha, one of the UK's best-known and most established designers.
As such, Rocha's spring/summer 2014 offering had the contemporary, hard-edged romance that is so associated with Simone.
Starting with voluminous A-line dresses in silk organza dappled with hand-sculpted petals and blooms to add texture, the collection then moved into more fluid shapes. Floor-length, almost fishtail skirts and dresses in sheer fabrics, ranging from dainty ivories to darkest black but always cheekily sheer. Sprinkled with ruffles, formed in golden and black lace or topped by a cream coat shirred off at the sleeves an hem, everything was beautifully slim and diaphanous.
The accessories were notable too. Twisted and looped organza piping (mirroring some of the dresses) formed see-through totes bags that will surely end up on many a lust list and hats too. Bibby Sowray
ANNA WINTOUR HAS LANDED
The editor-in-chief of US Vogue, Anna Wintour, is back in her homeland to lend some support to her old friend, the actor Bill Nighy. His daughter Mary (in blue) has directed Handprint, an environmental fashion film. Under the stewardship of Wintour, Green Carpet Challenge founder Livia Firth and the BFC's Natalie Massenet and Caroline Ruch, the film stars Elettra Wiedemann who wearing a unique piece by Stella McCartney, reflects on the journey that a piece of clothing takes from production to rail and the impact of this journey on both people and the environment. Amanda Harlech (in blush) was at athe screening too, at the W London in Leicester Square.
ORLA KIELY'S GIRLS GO ON SAFARI
Without a doubt the Orla Kiely show will be the most adorable of the week. Models sporting berets emerged from a tiny wooden door carrying lanters and jars filled with insects and settled into a safari scene where they amused themselves around a campfire or read books and played records. It all looked very Moonrise Kingdom , the Wes Anderson film in which a young girl and a boy scout run away from home.
But what of the clothes? Well, there were schoolgirl socks pulled up to the knee and worn with rather desirable, patent sandals in bold yellows and oranges. Zebras made an appearance upon cotton T-shirts and dresses, while the most delicate pieces of the collection were by way of white silk overlays featuring navy embroidered rhinos. The bags were cute too; sturdy binocular-shaped ones with gold clasps in pink and yellow kept the safari theme rolling, while big kids will fall for the panda and fox head-shaped bags and mini purses on a chain. Olivia Bergin
HOLLY FULTON'S GROOVY OPTIMISM
Scottish designer Holly Fulton captivated her audience with a collection that nodded to Laura Ashley florals and Seventies denim. Read the full show report here
TO THE BEACH! WITH ALEXIS BARRELL
For S/S '14 Alexis Barrell was inspired by an American road trip and cult 90s Tarantino film True Romance. The result: a sophistically laid-back collection full of desirable summer wear.
The South African born designer's third collection was a lesson in surfer girl chic. It flitted from girlish peasant dresses and flippy chiffon skirts to neoprene skater skirts and short playsuits.The silk pieces were a real highlight; an off-the-shoulder ruffled dress and cutesy playsuit covered with retro surfboard florals were perfect holiday wardrobe material.
An introduction of sportswear was another triumph. Grey hoodies and silk parkas with neon drawstring were über covetable. A softly tailored blazer and matching skirt paired with earth-mother chunky flip-flops (sounds dubious but really worked) offered a fresh take on work wear.
Something for every girl, we predict Alexis Barrell's collection to be more of sell-out that wipe-out. Stocked on Avenue32.com and My-wardrobe.com. Frankie Graddon
BEAUTY FROM BRAZIL
Everyone knows beauty comes from within, which is why show goers are supping the simply titled 'Beauty drink' being given out in the Somerset House courtyard. Hailing from Brazil, one has to push the spout down to release a flurry of vitamins into the liquid. Our fave flavour so far is the refreshing aloe vera, cucumber and lemon. If we drink enough we might secure a L'Oreal contract, right?
ANTIPODIUM GETS ACHINGLY COOL
Antipodium's Geoffrey Finch dressed his coterie of cool girls in a uniform of pastel suede, houndstooth and iridescent accents down at the Somerset House studios this morning. Models so cool they could barely pick their feet up showcased effortlessly fun pieces, most of which would be perfect to wear from day to night. Iridescent, short-sleeved with pleated-skirt PVC dresses dappled in the light and could be styled with all manner of under layers. Tiny iridescent appliqué flowers decorated spaghetti-strap suede tops and lilac skirts while a killer colour combination: navy and pink, were combined to bring a new twist on the classic houndstooth. Olivia Bergin
WHEN ERIN MET THE WAITER
The LFW parties might not have kicked off just yet, but one particular party last night got us giggling. Donning a super glitzy, ruby red gown British model Erin O'Connor attended David Downton's Midnight At Noon private view. Needless to say the Claridge's waiters were more than amazed at her model stature.
Photo: Rex
THE ACCESSORIES WE WANT NOW
Mawi's rhinestone encrusted clutch bags with pretty fan motifs are To. Die. For. We'll take one in every colour.
FRIENDLY FASHION
It's not often you get such open camaraderie between fashion labels, especially during hectic show season. Thumbs up to Holly Fulton for taking the time out of her show prep to Tweet at Sibling.
SISTER BY SIBLING DELVES INTO PASTURES NEW
London's kings of knit took a trip back to 50s Americana for their S/S '14 collection. "It was an era obsessed with modernity and glamour" they explained. Twee twin sets in sugary pastel gingham were followed by crochet skirts and slogan jumpers.
The trio made their first foray into denim and jersey with huge success. Trapeze-style overcoats were teamed with pastel swimsuits worn by smiling models with big bouncy hair. The collection retained the brand's fun factor while also becoming little more grown up. Then again, I guess it's all relative. Sophie Warburton
INSIDE ISABELLA BLOW'S WARDROBE
Fashion lovers are going to be in for a treat when highlights from the late Isabella Blow's wardrobe are exhibited in Somerset House from November 20. Some 100+ outfits, 68 hats (yes, that famous lobster one included) and countless pairs of Manolos purchased at auction by The Honourable Daphne Guinness are set to go on display.
"Isabella was very irreverent in the way she wore her clothes," explained curator Alistair O'Neill. "Sometimes she ripped her hems getting out of cars; she set to fire to her hats lighting cigarettes by candlelight and gave many of her pieces away". So sadly this won't be a complete homage to her style, but judging by the brief taster we had this morning (see the McQueen, Viktor & Rolf and Givenchy pics above) it will be a true homage to a woman who lived and breathed high fashion.
Olivia Bergin
ZOE JORDAN MAKES HER MARK
There was no doubt as to who was kicking off proceedings on this grey and drizzly second day of shows, since one of the first looks Zoe Jordan sent down the catwalk had her name spray-painted across its front. Jordan's collection was inspired by grown up skater girls, urban living and street art, hence the graffiti sprayed moniker, the tight black doodles spattered across various white separates, and the several black leather pieces. Things took a sportier turn with sheer hoodies and a perforated lamb leather dress. There were pops of colour, including the bright red finale - just the ticket before heading back out into the gloom. Nick Barron, stylebarron
GET YOUR OWN HOT TICKET TO LFW
SHOW DAY FOR HENRY
Henry Holland, who confirmed via his Twitter account that he is averaging 37 minutes sleep a night at the moment, gave us a preview of his S/S '14 accessories this morning. Expect lashings of cat-eye glamour at the 6pm show, but for now just enjoy the glimpse of geeky Henry with his iPhone in the metallic mirrors of those sexy shades.
Photo: henryholland
THE FASHION BAG, DAY TWO
Something quiet and discreet. Ok so it's not. But it is highly practical for schlepping everything you could possibly need in and more. Plus it has the all important teeny detachable pouch so when you actually waltz into a show, you can leave the work-horse part in the car and pretend your life is like Carine Roitfeld's. Smart thinking from Meli Melo. Lisa Armstrong
GUESS WHO?
At last! Fellow 'celebrities' will join lone ranger Laura Whitmore on her quest to hog the front row spotlight. The creature in question? Radio 1's Nick Grimshaw. Expect him at the House of Holland show, though hopefully without the wig, and with some trousers on. Photo: nicholasgrimshaw
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DAY 1: FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 13
THE HIGH-FASHION WORK OUT
I rounded off a beautifully British rainy Friday (am channelling Natalie Massenet's fabulously upbeat approach to, erm, everything) with a beautifully British cream tea with Tibi designer Amy Smilovic. Amy is in London to do business - forgot to ask what because there were too many other good stories to hear. My favourite? Her unique work out. "Basically I get on the elliptical and start browsing the e-stores. But I only allow myself to spend the same as the number of calories I'm burning." Works whichever way you look at it. Lisa Armstrong
SKIN'S IN FOR NEXT SPRING
The pièce de résistance that Todd Lynn sent down the finale of his S/S '14 catwalk show? A barely-there lacy jumpsuit that showed, well, everything. Is it us or does the back view remind you of Christina Aguilera's god awful chaps phase? Let's pray others don't relive it next summer.
JASPER CONRAN PREDICTS AN EASY BREEZY S/S '14
In south west London's Saatchi Gallery Jasper Conran gave us his S/S '14 offerings; a pretty collection of ladylike dresses and neat pantsuits in fresh white, lemon and navy. Starched shirt collars gave a girlish yet clean-lined look and were worn on sleeveless day dresses and linen shell tops.
The silhouettes were simple but classic; full skirts hitting just below the knee, straight leg trousers, tailored shorts and nipped in waists. Embellishment came by way of shimmering trompe l'oeil bead work, frothy organza blooms and whimsical hand-draw prints. Splashes of earthy tangerine and ochre kept the summery palette from becoming saccharin.
The deck chair striped pencil skirts in pink, green and blue were highlights as was a navy full length dress with pique collar that could easily be seen on front row-ers Darcey Bussell and Brit actress Katherine Kelly.
From Breton knits to flippy sun dresses and floor sweeping silk kaftans, this easy breezy collection had everything one needs for an English summer. Frankie Graddon
BACK TO SCHOOL WITH JEAN-PIERRE BRAGANZA
Jean-Pierre Braganza's inspiration was "the nonchalance with which my daughter wears her school uniform". The styling certainly echoed school days - long loose locks and overzealous spray tans - but the clothes were strictly for grown-ups. Silk flowed in modern monochrome prints, interspersed with flashes of oriental red and pink. This was Jean-Pierre Braganza's sports luxe aesthetic on strong form: easy-to-wear tees were paired with low-slung trousers and asymmetric or skater skirts. From the structured origami dresses to the cracked leather sleeveless biker jacket, if we're in school then this is what the sixth form's über-cool older sisters are wearing. And I want every piece. Sarah Royce-Greensill
RAEBURN'S RE-VISIONS
"Do you know, I wore an orange parachute Christopher Raeburn dress eight years ago to go to Downing Street?!" Hilary Alexander said after the show. The use or more appropriately, re-use of US-issued military parachutes has become a signature of Raeburn's designs. This season, inspired by desert protection, Raeburn constructs capes, parkas and military jackets in parachute material. Shirt dresses, and a clever playsuit (it zips into two so can be worn together or as separates) were printed with bespoke hybrid designs featuring Ordnance Survey maps and Victorian cartography in a colour palette that ranged from sandy yellows to azure blues, dispersed with pops of pink.
"It's all about functionality, that's at the core of what we've always done," said Raeburn backstage after the show. "This season we've thought about how we can develop that through amazing fabrics, perfect fits and simple shapes." In addition to the recycling of materials several new fabrics have been developed this season including 'cool-wool', a clever material that adapts to your body temperature and the hybrid Schoeller textile with a four-way stretch making it super comfy. The collection is also the first time the designer has used denim, but not just any denim, lizard-denim - an eco-fabric with a reptilian look and feel.
And the Raeburn girl wouldn't be complete without her functional accessories; signature rucksacks were constructed in innovative materials, as well as new shapes in the form of the clutch and the compact 'capsule bag' that you wear around your neck.
"It's a really handy accessory that you can store your lipstick, pound coins or penknife in," explains the designer… desert island essentials obviously!" Tallulah Bullock
EUDON CHOI'S PRINCESS POWERS
With the relaxing tinkering of oriental bells, some of the front row were beginning to wind down after a long first day of fashion week. Eudon Choi on the other hand has not been kicking back. Finding inspiration in his heritage, Choi looked back to the Korean Joseon Dynasty; specifically the reign of Princess Deokhye. Keeping the silhouettes very much in his signature style, the Korean born designer played with floral jacquard and silk knitwear along with classic cottons. Highlights from the collection included a collarless overcoat and a white strapless gown showing that he is a master of both day and night. The cut and finish of the clothing, as ever, was second to none and each and every item was desirable. Quite a feat. Sophie Warburton
A FESTIVE FEEL AT BERNARD CHANDRAN
It may be spring/summer but there was something undeniably festive about Bernard Chandran's collection. A medley of jewel shades glittered down the catwalk - along with Quality Street purples, scarlets and gold tartan there were aquamarine ensembles enough to satisfy anyone's Little Mermaid fantasies. Curiously, some t-shirts were accessorised with what looked like tinsel spirals. Flippy skirts and flute sleeves added to the young, playful feel, while one voluminous parachute dress made us wonder whether BC has been comparing notes with a certain VB. Sleek gowns with bejewelled harnesses seem destined to adorn the Malay equivalent of the Duchess of Cambridge. But there were also flashes of modernity - a smartly tailored silver jumpsuit stood out. One of the crowns perched atop a model's head turned out to be a pair of glittering headphones, as she stomped along nonchalantly clutching an iPod. These touches suggest Chandran is targeting a more current type of fashion royalty. Sarah Royce-Greensill
CAUGHT IN THE ACT
Yep, that 's Donna Air (also known as James Middleton's new squeeze) taking a selfie at the Felder Felder show. Photo: Reuters
CORRIE NIELSEN'S FORBIDDEN LIASONS
The May Fair Hotel is the official fashion hotel for London Fashion Week and it's where Corrie Nielsen presented her S/S '14 collection. Since winning the fashion initiative of Fashion Fringe back in 2010, the luxury womenswear designer has taken to new heights. In a playground of London's most stylish, the collection was a powerful mix of emotions blazing within the films 'House of Daggers' and 'In the Mood for Love'.
1950s China ensnared women and shrouded them away from pursuing love, yet this strengthened their passion, leading to instances of ardent seduction. Duchesse silk, latex and waxed cotton are her new fabric palettes, combing the techniques of piping and finding along with her classic couture tailoring. You're never likely to see anything on her catwalk that can be immediately worn, but then that's possibly part of the charm and theatrics. Here, Nielsen pushed the collection through a new lighter and feminine take. Jenny Taylor
HERE COMES THE (DAKS) BRIDE
Click here to read the full show report
Photos: EPA/ AFP
PURPLE EYEBROWS, ANYONE?
If Pearce Fionda's catwalk look is anything to go on we'll all be colouring our eyebrows in a fluro shade of purple next summer. Bonus points for dual-coloured lash wings too.
THIS MODEL LIFE
Spare a moment for the poor models jetting in from NYC. Not only do they have this rain to contend with, there's the small matter of jet lag, castings and looking fabulous even though someone's made you up to look like an alien. We're rooting for Stephanie Hall, the flame-haired beauty from Kingston, who put out this tweet:
FELDER FELDER GO UNDER THE SURF
The Felder sisters are known for playing with duality and the twins have come up with something different for the S/S '14 collection. Injecting a hint of seduction to statement pieces, Felder Felder dives into white surf, crystalline, soft coral tones and into the deep blue, considering the black mystery ahead - the unknown. Bodies dance beneath organza and sheer fabrics, fish scales shimmer with intense blues. The Felder woman darts between light and dark with the freedom of the innocent. Get #Felderized. Jenny Taylor
GIMME SHELTER
There's all manner of rain shields going down at Somerset House. From fabulously floral and historic homages to budget black ones, show-goers are even covering up their statement headwear in the name of stayin' dry.
J. JS LEE'S JELLYFISH INFLUENCE
Jackie JS Lee's collection is indebted to a jellyfish - or rather, a close-up of a jellyfish. "I found this zoomed-in photo of a pink jellyfish, so I went to the London Aquarium and watched them swimming," the diminutive Korean designer told me when I visited her studio in Dalston on Wednesday.
"I thought, 'I can use this.'" Remarkably relaxed for a designer days away from showing her spring/summer 2014 collection, Lee talked me through her moodboard: pink shards of coral; pepto bismol bottles; string vests; lumpy roll-necks; Art Deco Vogue covers from the Twenties; and a large picture of Tilda Swinton were plastered on the wall. "Ahhhh Tilda," Lee swooned when I asked why she picked Swinton as her muse. "I would love to meet her! She's so refined."
Her new collection is full of pieces that would suit Swinton's languid style: a turquoise suit with a lapel shape sewn directly on to crepe wool; wax coated pink and ivory dresses, semi-fitted on the front but with a box back, to allow for movement; sheer, light-as-tissue navy sweaters with cream and pink grid patterns; and waterproof macs overlaid with a layer of lasercut circles, cut to allow them to ripple as one walks.
The tailoring influence is strong - Lee trained as a pattern cutter, a foundation eschewed by many designers - and the aesthetic as unadorned and pared-back as ever. "I always say my aesthetic is cleanism rather than minimalism," Lee said. "These days I feel we can't really say what is minimal - if you're all in white but have lots of layers, people still call it minimal because you're in all one colour. But clean is…a more intrinsic thing. I don't put any useless detail. It's functional." Luckily for us, the form-follows-function formula has yielded stellar results. Ellie Pithers. Photos: EPA/ Getty
LAURA WHIT HOW-MANY-CHANGES MORE
The time (sponsored by Microsoft) is 12.37 and TV presenter Laura Whitmore has worn more outfits than we've taken trips to the loo today. The Irish blonde was front row at Bora Aksu, Fyodor Golan and Felder Felder in a new get-up. Just looking at her is exhausting. Photos: Getty
FEELING NAUGHTY WITH OSTWALD HELGASON
"We were feeling naughty this season," says Suzanne Ostwald guiltily when I point at the grey sweatshirt featuring a motif of two balloon dogs doing what can only be politely described as 'getting it on' (no sex please, this is the Telegraph ).
Fresh from a well-received New York presentation, Ostwald Helgason showed their "fun, happy, upbeat" collection in London to an enraptured crowd, many of whom were decked out in this season's Baudelaire-emblazoned sweater.
"We've had a few tricky times recently and we just wanted to celebrate happy things this season," Ostwald said. This new buoyant mood took shape in a balloon dog print woven into jacquard in a signature origami-shape skirt, bright pleated floor-length sheer dresses, and punchy florals in sporty shorts and jackets combinations.
Ostwald, along with her partner Ingvar Helgason, has introduced sheer fabrics this season to expand into eveningwear. "It's a real step forward for us as its something we've been meaning to explore for a while," said Ostwald, pointing out a cobalt blue patterned maxi dress with a sheer plissé pleated skirt. "We wanted to create a material that in a way replicates the texture of a balloon, it's a silk organza interwoven with a wool fibre, like a curly wool. I love the colour gradations."
Also new were the shoes - the result of a collaboration with ALDO rise. "ALDO were great to work with," said Ostwald. "We designed the whole collection in two days!" But back to those balloon dogs - is this season's Ostwald Helgason lady a bit of a good time girl? "We didn't even know if we wanted to use it, it did feel a bit raunchy for a happy Ostwald Helgason girl!" she admitted. Fittingly, though, yesterday was the Day of Conception in Russia - so those balloon dogs are bang on trend. Ellie Pithers
FYODOR GOLAN'S ENERGETIC FASHIONS
On the 6th floor of a London high rise, Fyodor Golan brought a splash of next summer to town. Structured tafetta biker jackets in sunshine yellow were teamed with skin tight pencil skirts while blush pink dresses came with a dash of turquoise snakeskin. "We were inspired by the morning runners and bikers that we see on our daily walk to our studio" said the designers. "We loved the idea of flexible and energetic sportswear achieved through luxury fabrics". If only all sportswear was this chic, I might take up running. Sophie Warburton. Photos: Getty
FASHION'S SHINY NEW HOME
Anyone can take a stroll through the courtyard at Somerset House, which is home to the BFC's catwalk tent. If you do, you won't be able to miss the mirrored casing conceived by shoe maverick Nicholas Kirkwood - perfect for fashionistas to check themselves out in. Photo: LFW Daily/ Instagram
BROLLIES AT THE READY
Erm, there's no way to sugar-coat this, but as headlines read: '70mph gales to batter Britain', best to locate those wellies...
BORA AKSU GET THE SHOW STARTED
London-based Turkish designer Bora Aksu brightened up a dreary Friday the 13th with a suitably summery colour palette.
Photos: Getty
THE FUTURE'S BRIGHT
Natalie Massenet declared a rainy London Fashion Week open this morning with lots of upbeat news. Look out for the BFC pop up shop, 'The Shop' selling eight contemporary designers (with a logo by Peter Blake) and instabooths so you can share your fashion week selfies with all and sundry.
But the big news was the announcement of five new industry experts to drive London Fashion Week forward. In charge of Reputation is 10 Magazine editor-in-chief, Sophia Neophitou-Apostolou, a woman who will not take no for an answer and already has her sights set in bringing British designers home: Stella, Vivienne, Hussein, look out! She's on your case.
For Investment there is Jonathan Goodwin of Lepe Partners who worked with Tamara Mellon at Jimmy Choo and who will be advising designers on being investment ready. For Business, it's James McArthur, CEO of Anya Hindmarch. For Digital Innovation, it's Peter Fitzgerald, director of retail at Google who aims to help our fashion businesses to sing online.
Sarah Mower and Meribeth Parker from Hearst UK are putting education in the limelight this season. M&S will be underwriting a fashion BA scholarship starting next September and they hope to attract another ten businesses to sponsor scholarships over the next year.
Hurrah for Natalie Massenet! Hurrah for the BFC! Watch this space. Tamsin Blanchard
WINDOW DRESSING WITH FENWICK
To celebrate London Fashion Week, we've dressed five windows on Fenwick of Bond Street in brilliant designs by British designers Preen, Clements Ribero, Zoe Jordan, Richard Nicoll and Amelia Powers. Plus from today until September 17, every day we are giving away a £500 shopping spree at Fenwick.co.uk. Here's how to enter
Photo: Paul Grover
LEG-OH…
Toy company Lego are calling this creation 'brick-tacular'! What, you ask? It's a dress partly made from 5,000 Lego bricks by Central Saint Martins College of Art student Anne-Sophie Cochevelou. Why, you say? Because Lego wanted to show that there's nothing you can't do with a LEGO brick. And that's what we call a colourful publicity stunt. Photos: PA
All the action from days three, four and five at London Fashion Week, including synchronised swimming with Stella McCartney and the Telegraph's alternative catwalk down at Somerset House.
BY Olivia Bergin | 17 September 2013
In the video above: Catwalk show-goers show us their outfits and struts in the courtyard of London Fashion Week venue Somerset House for the Telegraph's alternative catwalk.
GOODBYE, FOLKS!
...We hope you enjoyed reading the blog as much as we enjoyed compiling it. As a parting 'gift', Daily Telegraph fashion editor Lisa Armstrong muses on the five things we learnt from this installment of fashion week:
1. Number 1 London is an actual address, not the name of a dodgy new alcopop. That's for the international readership by the way; we already knew it was an early C18th mansion with Adams interiors, on the south-east corner of Hyde Park that it got its name because it was once the first house passed by visitors who travelled from the countryside after the toll gates at Knightsbridge (Thank-you Wikipedia).
2. In the old days, crystal contained lead. Fact. This one's from Christopher Kane who used lead-free crystal to trim his sustainable dress for the World Global Fund, which was launched at Number 1 on Monday (see how this is all joining up).
3. Christopher Bailey's mum likes Tom Odell. She recently heard him on the radio and called her son to say she thought he might like the acoustic cutie. Bailey had to explain that he had exclusively booked Odell to soundtrack his show way back in February - which she attended. It could have been far worse: she could have recommended Roger Whitaker.
4. London, Tom Ford's latest perfume is like spraying yourself with pheromones. People seem to want to mount you when you're wearing it.
5. Always sit in your correct seat at fashion shows. Team Telegraph accidentally swapped with Elizabeth Saltzman and now we have each other's astrological charts - the ones painstaking compiled to our individual birthdates, by the astrologers at Anya Hindmarch.
MARIA GRACHVOGEL'S MATURE IMPACT
Maria Grachvogel's collection was, according to her show notes, an expression of youthful innocence, inspired by a young artist unaware of her great beauty. Strange then that the clothes felt so grown up - indeed, most wouldn't look out of place on her front row guest, Emma Thompson. Still, there's nothing wrong with the element of maturity - Grachvogel's wafting Egyptian cotton dresses and printed separates in dark pastels and neutrals were elegant and smart and there was an element of playfulness in the prints. Her 'skirt pant' was business at the front, party at the back, with its trouser front and flowing rear, and the train on the finale dress kept on coming. All in all, this was a collection for an elegant grown up who still wants to make an impact. Nick Barron
LUCAS NASCIMENTO DOES SHOWER CHIC
Perhaps it was solidarity with his bedraggled audience that prompted Lucas Nascimento to send his first few models down the runway looking as though they'd just stepped out of the shower - wet hair plastered to their heads, silk dresses resembling towels wrapped around their torsos. The bathing theme continued with tube skirts and dresses in gauzy fabric reminiscent of shower curtains.
Things looked up when we returned to dry land. Sheer neon coral and vibrant tomato reds were welcome additions to the palette of dove grey, navy and white. There were work-ready tailored trousers and bar-ready asymmetric, layered crepe dresses. White leather separates, meanwhile, will be coveted by the tanned and toned. Precisely cut jackets revealed stomach and sternum, but will make elegant layering pieces for those with less naturist tendencies.
It was modern, it was simple, it was grown-up. Unfortunately it wasn't quite the grand finale the exhausted fash pack needed to reinvigorate them before filing back out into the drizzle. Sarah Royce-Greensill
MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF'S MODELS MEET A STICKY END
It's fair to say that the rose littered runway at Meadham Kirchhoff was in no way a precursor to the rest of the show's tone. As a horror film soundtrack (think the high-pitched screeches before the victim is about to get stabbed) resonated out, viewers welcomed a family of Puritan girls down the runway; some with Paloma Faith orange curls, some with blonde ringlets that bounced.
Meadham's stone-faced dolls marched in wide-brimmed straw hats and black, silk lapelled blazers over pleated dresses with collars. The effect was schoolgirl meets a sticky end. As the collection continued to roll out, models pulled their ankle socks up and lost the blazers to reveal the achingly embellished pleats, ruffles and lace accents underneath.
A leather jacket and snakeskin coat took these Little Miss Muffet characters in more of a rock chic direction, before garments veered towards a regal finish with an embroidered bustier and selection of luxe elbow length gloves. Once we'd accepted the young ladies' demise, the whole thing was really quite mesmerising. Alice Newbold
MEANINGFUL MORENA
Today we saw a paired down collection from Emilio de la Morena; an attempt to 'rediscover and redefine' his woman. Whether he did this or not, it sure was lovely.
Inspired by a man's sleeveless waxed jacket, the stripped back collection was a lesson in chic daytime dressing. Cropped raw silk jackets were paired with slim-line tailored trousers while below-the-knee skirts were spliced front and back for ease of movement.
Traditional tailoring details were subverted with hand-stitched trench coat vents on the back of a draped hessian sundress.
Epaulets, neat collars and paper bag waists gave a polished yet relaxed attitude.
Super fine cobwebby jumpers and a navy and cream striped knitted shift were the stars of the show.
De la Morena's one concession to his trademark femininity were rosettes peeking from shell tops and skirt pockets - pretty but still chic in simplicity. Frankie Graddon. Photos: Getty
DANCER'S DREAMS AT TATA NAKA
Diminutive design duo Tamara and Natasha Surguladze are utter perfectionists. As their models channelled Covent Garden's stationary street artists, swaying only slightly under the non-stop pop of oppressively bright flashbulbs, the twins fussed and adjusted to get every pose just so. Classic shapes in vibrant prints formed the yin and yang of Tata Naka's collection: a traditional swimsuit, a cropped-leg jumpsuit and a loose-fit shirt were transformed with a bright, alphabet print of primary colours on monochrome. The Ballets Russes inspiration was evident in a colour block dress trimmed with pinky polka-dot tulle. Other pieces had a circus feel - a patchwork trim of hexagons in primary and sorbet colours was unmistakeably jester-esque. Styling was ballerina beautiful, with matte orange and pink colour-pop lips and middle partings slicked back into shapely bows. It was a shame the models were marooned so motionlessly on their plinths, because it was when they swapped positions that we could see how beautifully the clothes moved: one off-the-shoulder, cinched-waist dress had a flared skirt which skimmed hips like a ballet dancer's dream. Sarah Royce-Greensill
FASHION EAST GOES EIGHTIES
In total contrast, Barrow's collection was far darker, inspired by magic and the otherworldly. Her black and neutral separates were doodled with horoscopes, their edges frayed. There were plenty of her signature painted leathers too and, truth be told, the jackets and coats had it - a painted biker and the two long, painted PVC coats were the standouts. But best in show was Williams, whose Eighties Americana and beach-inspired collection featured smart denim dresses and skirts with double denim panels, swimwear and a 'Dream Boat' speedboat motif across white jackets, swimsuits and printed all over a white cotton jumpsuit, all played out to a soundtrack that moved from the Terminator score to Dance Hall Days. Very Eighties, very fun, very Fashion East. Nick Barron
THOMAS TAIT'S TOUGH LOVE
The intimate venue at Il Bottaccio made a welcome change from the crowds surrounding many of the shows this season. In the calm, a mainly white collection came down the runway with accents of soft sherbet shades and flashes of acid green. The first half kept to Tait's trademark of clean lines while the second half of the collection moved on to more romantic shapes. Billowing anoraks over pale pink plastic dresses, funnel necks with feather trims and white leather jackets with coloured stripes all added to a serene but tough beauty. Aurelia Donaldson
ALLSAINTS'S NEW LOOK
Fresh from a successful presentation at New York Fashion Week, British brand AllSaints decided to bring their well-received SS'14 collection back home to allow us a look at the pieces that will be hitting stores next February - and subsequently heading straight to the top of our lust lists.
With a new head of womenswear, who joins from Phillip Lim working under the eye of Chief Creative Director Wil Beedle, the spring collection is more aligned with Rag & Bone and Sandro than the high street, although price points remain competitive. Displaying a controlled ease and precision in volume AllSaints has done away with the abundant use of sequins that used to pepper their seasonal collections, making way for a more minimalist, contemporary feel.
For next spring/summer this means lightweight butter soft leather jackets that rival Acne, dreamy blush-coloured cashmere and subtle layering. The palette is just as grown up, with navy, peachy blush, red and black forming the basis. It's all very model off-duty chic, effortlessly cool and refreshingly new. Bibby Sowray
POSES PLEASE...
These eclectically-dressed folks have been getting in the spirit of our #telecatwalk live cam at Somerset House (watch the video above for the highlights).
SHOW OF THE WEEK? SIMONE ROCHA...
It's a pleasure in so many ways watching a Simone Rocha show. Each season she allows herself to explore and expand her handwriting just a fraction more so that watching her label grow is like seeing a beautiful flower inching open. Today it really blossomed. Heavenly. You couldn't fault it. After last season's romance with pink the palette was back to mostly black and white - with an allowance for some restful mossy green and flashes of gold - but the textures of those monochromes were fabulous - patent cotton, 'wet lace', embroidered plastic, allowing the Rocha half-girl, half-granny who has a weakness for a full skirted party dress to be pretty and yet bold as brass at the same time. With neat frills that swooped around the waist and one hip there were half a dozen of those dresses that I would buy right now if I could. And if you don't want one of those beautiful cocoon-shaped car coats in clotted cream or butter-soft green leather I don't know what we're all doing here.
Have I mentioned the pearls? Clearly nicked from Granny's jewellery box the girl flaunted them on her stomping great shoes, her old lady hand bags, in great thick wodges around her neck and all over her knee-high nylons. Gorgeous. The show notes described the collection as 'hard, wet, dark, ugly' but I'm afraid we'll have to agree to differ on that last adjective, Ms Rocha. Kate Finnigan
SINFUL OR SAINTLY? THE BACKSTAGE MODEL MENU
It's the pizza deliveries and Percy Pigs that are going down a fashionable storm backstage with hungry models. Leaving the detox salads untouched, all thoughts are on when the next batch of bacon baps will be arriving, rather than totting up five-a-day intakes. Find out more about what's on the model menu
ANYA'S INTERGALACTIC PRESENTATION
Last season, Anya Hindmarch enlisted 50,000 dominoes to draw attention to her new collection; this season she looked to the stars.
The invite, titled 'Out Of This World', and housing three space-themed lollipops had us wondering how exactly she would play this one - what on earth is the connection between space and handbags? Then the silver packet of Walkers crisp waiting for us on our show seat had us even more confused.
We needn't have been though. As always, Anya pulled this one out of the bag (see what we did there?). What started off as a so-so fashion show - models in neoprene dresses toting Hindmarch's bag on the catwalk - soon became other-wordly.
Cue handbags descending from the sky and models ascending to the sky as they gracefully danced mid-air, all to a very cinematic soundtrack.
The theme, said Anya, was inspired by the collection's use of featherweight fabrics and mineral-like textures.
Where did the crisps packet come into play? Well, one of the new season bags is just that, a crisp packet made of sculpted metal. Bibby Sowray
STREET STYLE MUST-HAVE: PATCHWORK DENIM
The fashion pack has ditched plain denim in favour of multi-coloured shades of blue; and patchwork patterns too, courtesy of Junya Watanabe. The best part? Should you want to dabble in the trend you can cobble old pairs of jeans and ex-tartan favourites together to 'get the look'.
STELLA TAKES US SWIMMING
The music was thumping in the vast white space where a team of toned, fit bodies showed off Stella McCartney's next instalment for Adidas.
Wearing pale green bodysuits paired with jersey short-shorts and cropped sweat tops in co-ordinating pastel shades of blue and pale grey, a team of six from the Tracy Anderson Method performed some often mind-boggling aero yoga. (McCartney is thought to be a devotee of Anderson's 'Method' after being introduced by Gwyneth Paltrow, and it shows).
Then there were the synchronised swimmers (from Aquabatix) performing in little black cut-out swimming costumes - so desirable in fact, that it seems a shame to only wear them at the swimming baths.
And while spinning has the reputation for being a rather gruelling activity, all eyes were on the sleeveless orange hoodies and navy leggings sported by those taking the Boom Cycle class - not the red faces.
There was a retro feel to the collegiate-style logo tanks (being worn by the dance collective) while those who really like to make a statement when they run can opt for either a) daisy-print separates on a grey background or B) a striking navy and white marble print.
When working out looks this good, those old black leggings just don't cut the mustard anymore. Olivia Bergin
THE ALTERNATIVE CATWALK
Telegraph Fashion is stationed in Somerset House primed and ready to catch fashionistas strutting around the show grounds. See what the bloggers, buyers and street style gurus are wearing to combat London's less-than-friendly weather conditions all day, but expect an influx of trendy types at 2pm and 4pm for the Emilio de la Morena and Maria Grachvogel shows, respectively.
THE BITTER ORANGE SCENT OF MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF...
Beauty news is out that Penhaligon's will be scenting Meadham Kirchhoff's Ante Dominae show this afternoon. The British perfume brand says the Castile candle is evocative of 'Mediterranean nights'. "It's bursting with citrus, neroli and orange pith, then sweetened up with burnt sugar and spice, and Meadham and Kirchhoff both loved its strange intensity," said a Penhaligon's spokesperson.
AND THEY CALL IT PUPPY LOVE...
We downed all tools when Nelly, the 11-week-old French Bulldog came to pay us a visit this morning (forget deadlines!). The puppy, who belongs to our loyal courier Denise, is looking for a home... Yes, we are seriously contemplating an 'office dog'....
OH CARA...
While sensible Jourdan Dunn was camera-ready for her post-Burberry show interview, Cara Delevingne acted up in her 'superhero' balaclava yesterday. Watch the full interview here
BIZARRE BEAUTY: FIRST OF THE MOHICANS AT SIMONE ROCHA
"Tomboy punk. Just like the collection, which was inspired by West Ireland - think Irish school girl who is rebelling," explained James Pecis who created the mohawks backstage for Simone Rocha using L'Oreal Paris. "Simone loves a mohawk," he added.
"Like a friendship bracelet we tied nine ponytails at the back into knots, and left a high shine on the sides of the head using
L'Oreal Paris Elnett." Inspired by the bleak, wet weathered areas in West Ireland this was all about texture, "so we used lots of L'Oreal Paris Studioline Texture Spray," (launching in November) says Pecis, his second favourite new product after Elnett. We've taken a spring/summer 2014 note.
BEAUTY MOMENT: ANYA'S INTERGALACTIC BEAUTY
Anya's first ever backstage beauty is, says hair stylist Neil Moodie, "out of this world. It's intergalactic, with a modern, say futuristic, nod to the Sixties." Using his L'Oreal Paris essentials, Moodie described the slick and glossy hair as, "almost wet look."
Make-up followed with a Barbarella theme. "We wanted girls to feel like super sexy beings," said Val Garland. "We used lashings of mascara for gorgeous, clumpy thick lashes - using L'Oreal Paris Miss Manga - smoky, sexy powder around the eye and finished with a coating of L'Oreal Paris Color Riche Privee lipstick in Doutzen."
DAY 4: MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 16
PRINGLE BALANCES HERITAGE WITH MODERN DESIGN
This season, Pringle of Scotland proved that diamonds really are forever. The S/S '14 collection from new designer Massimo Nicosia used the house's iconic argyle diamonds as the basis for his first womenswear collection at Pringle. The nearly two hundred year old brand, which has been pushing to become much more fashion-focused over the past few years, seems to have really struck a balance this season between respecting their rich heritage, whilst moving forward in terms of design.
The diamond shape was used throughout the collection from small lace-like stitched panels in leather bomber jackets to 3D beaded intarsia jumpers. A luxe sports feel made the collection extremely wearable, while rounded silhouettes juxtaposing the geometric argyle pattern showed positively intelligent design. Even the iconic Pringle twin-set was revamped with sheer diamond mesh sleeves.
After the presentation we popped along to the lovely new Pringle flagship store for a glass of bubbly. Located in the historic luxury shopping area of Mount Street, the light and spacious store really reflects where the brand is positioning itself. The beardy and appropriately kilted new store manager made us feel very welcome, while guest of honour Tilda Swinton looked stunning in a beautiful black knitted maxi dress. Tallulah Bullock
PAM HOGG'S OUTRAGEOUS HEADWEAR
Wham bam thank you Pam! After another, erm, fashionably late start (over an hour!) the mistress of mayhem gave us a collection full of drama, Lycra and outrageous headwear.
Hogg started the show with a homage to WWII nurses and Wrens (albeit with the Hogg subversive twist). White tailored military style shirts, shirt dresses and pencil skirts with braces (in PVC obvs- very Night Porter) were accessorised with Airforce style caps tipped to the side.
Of course Hogg's trademark Thundercat panelled body suits made an appearance. Sugary pink, blue and metallic gold second-skin all-in-ones were topped off with fresh flower headdresses. An injection of gothic romance came from an elaborate Black Bird head creation. Photos: AP
The arrival of an extremely svelte Mary Charteris marked the Po-beep section of the show as she sashayed down the catwalk in a sheer playsuit complete with bows and oversized bonnet.
Wearable? No; unless you are a mighty morphing Power Ranger. Contemporary, modern, relevant? No, no and no! Did that matter? Not one bit. Hogg delighted fans including Anita Pallenberg and Siouxsie Sioux (Paloma was apparently a no show) with her mad-capped creations.
Fashion 0 - Pam Hogg 1. Frankie Graddon
TOP LONDON DESIGNERS UNITE TO HELP THE GLOBAL FUND
Victoria Beckham, Erdem, Christopher Bailey, Christopher Kane and Roland Mouret have created sustainable clothes which will be sold on Net-A-Porter.com to benefit charities. Read more about the initiative here
TOM FORD - IF IT AIN'T BROKE DON'T FIX IT
Tom Ford created clothes with instant sex appeal - much like during his Gucci days. Why break the habits of a life time, asks Lisa Armstrong
PETER PILOTTO X TARGET - IT'S COMING
The show notes promised an 'exclusive announcement' straight after the show, and that's exactly what Peter Pilotto gave us. Just as the duo's spring/summer 2014 collection strutted off the catwalk, an email hit our inbox informing us that they would be the next designers to collaborate with Target.
In case you don't know, Target is the US bargain superstore that has become famed for its exclusive purse-friendly tie-ups with the likes of Philip Lim, Alexander McQueen, Mulberry, Zac Posen and Proenza Schouler - they literally fly off the shelves when released. We're sure this will be no different when it hits shelves in February 2014, especially as almost everything will be under $60.
What makes Peter Pilotto's collaboration even better is that it will be available to UK customers too, via Net-A-Porter (halleluja!).
Anyway, back to the boys.
No doubt buoyed by the announcement, the show was suitably high octane with models whizzing past in what seemed like all directions - a trick played by the reflective translucent coloured Perspex dividers they had erected at the catwalk intersections.
Origami-like folds created crisp structure and volume that brilliantly displayed the brand's signature print work. As colourful and vibrant as ever, the collection refreshingly spanned almost the entire spectrum, from the palest mint greens to inky black.
Embellished tweeds and embroidery were new ground for the label. Both were expertly executed and blended seamlessly into the punchy signature aesthetic.
It's easy to see why the Pilotto brand has become a favourite with the style set - it's equal parts fun and fashion-forward but with the sentimentality of real, couture-like design - and they simply can't be beaten when it comes to print. Bibby Sowray.Photos: Getty
HUISHAN ZHANG'S TWO TALES
Huishan Zhang presented a collection of two stories. First, a ruched symmetrical diamond pattern was repeated on the bodices of neat summer dresses and the bandeau chest panels of baby doll frocks with sheer sleeves. This clingy diamond effect - sometimes peppered with super-size sequins or tear drop gems - was always contrasted with a flippy peplum hemline of the finest cotton. One piece, dare we say, was strikingly similar to VB's newly presented 'cake' dress.
The second half used a four-petal flower, not too dissimilar to a lucky clover, as its base. Where the ruched, form-fitting material of the diamonds would look awkward on anyone without a lithe frame, these monochrome separates were highly wearable (with a good old M&S underskirt below the sheer skirts, of course). Alice Newbold
HELLO TOASTY…
Ridiculous pictures of a spray-tanned Chippendale look-a-like aside, The Federation of Bakers' Eau de Toast actually smells pretty good. Launched to coincide with LFW, to 'remind the nation's women who skip breakfast just what they're missing' (tenuous, we know) the scent has been developed using yeast top notes with a hint of caramel combined with complementary bitter-sweet and malty base notes to help give the overall impression of freshly toasted bread. In fact, it actually smells more like candyfloss, and after every squirt, everyone in the office has been dying to find out what's just been sprayed…
PASTEL PERFECTION AT BURBERRY
With lace produced in Nottingham and cashmere from Scotland, Christopher Bailey's homegrown Burberry collection fused the sexy and the protective. Read the full show report here
MICHAEL VAN DER HAM: THE PATCHWORK PRINCE
Michael van der Ham is the king of patchwork print and this season was no exception. Pollock-style prints in the most sumptuous of jacquards were draped around the body, overlaying slippery silks. The old-faithful luxe T-shirt made an appearance before a showcase of A-line shift dresses in varying patchwork. Drop waist slip dresses with voluminous skirts were well received by the crowd alongside the designer's small dabbling with eveningwear. At times the collection seemed a bit repetitive, but if it ain't broke… Sophie Warburton
TALK ABOUT A TYPO...
Spell-check gone mad? Homosexuality on the brain? We'd love to know what inspired this typo on the Thomas Tait invites...
HERE COMES THE BRIDE... AT ERDEM
Erdem knows how to set a scene and with his Tarmac-ed catwalk, duet of piano and strings and hydrangeas for every guest he didn't disappoint; romance with an edge is his speciality. And yet this collection was confusing. The new silhouette, with the cinched-waist dresses of past collections replaced by a leaner 1920s shape, was a nice change up but by delivering it in so much white lace and sheer tulle the effect was positively bridal. What else were we meant to think of? However, if you looked beneath the beautiful swathes of sheer there were tantalising glimpses of skirts, pleated, boucle, that would work for a lesser occasion - the kind of pieces that make the Erdem dream accessible as well as exquisite. The other good news is that any fashionable girl getting married next year has her work done for her. Kate Finnigan
READY TO RAVE AT NASIR MAZHAR
What do you get if you cross Gwen Stefani's Harajuku girls with Rihanna for River Island and a Loaded magazine shoot? Nasir Mazhar's S/S '14 collection, that's what. At the Topshop Showspace in Regent's Park, braided ladies with long talons and neon lipstick took it in turns to gyrate - some more self-consciously than others - in front of a white screen, while taking selfies on their jewel-encrusted iPhones and, when they ran out of other ideas, pulling a Miley. The clothes were young, fun and inspired by the East - think Dalston as well as oriental street style. While bondage-esque neon pink bikinis, fringed chaps and blinged-out orthopaedic leg braces are more likely to be paraded at raves in deepest Camden, the ubiquitous crop tops and snap-backs are sure to appeal to the Rihanna-worshipping, 'gangsta' under-23 demographic. Sarah Royce-Greensill
READ: Model diets at London Fashion Week
MARIOS SCHWAB'S ODE TO STATIONERY
Marios Schwab raided the stationery cupboard this season, with varying degrees of success. The first look - a white form-fitting sheath dress tagged with spray-painted blue streaks - seemed to be the result of an over-excited trip to Ryman's, but Schwab came into his stride quickly when armed with a staple gun. Sculptural black and white dresses, crisp white shirts with cutaway sleeves and even a suede biker jacket had their various panels held together by giant rose gold staples. This was mirrored in the rose gold hair clips (designed by Husem El Odeh) that gripped the models' ponytails. The indigo denim skater dresses felt particularly modern, as did the distressed denim chevrons that were sewn onto barely-there lace slips and laid over soft sequinned bodice under-dresses. An eraser might have come in handy for a couple of the final looks - red carpet fodder but not with the subtlety of his veiled tulle creations - but on the whole this was a confident effort from Schwab. Ellie Pithers
CHRISTOPHER KANE'S FLOWER POWER
A SUMMER OF SLOGANS
If Holly Fulton, Sister by Sibling, Vivienne Westwood, Christopher Kane and Fyodor Golan's collections are anything to go by, we'll be sporting our slogan jersey loud and proud next summer. Credits left to right.
DEREK BLASBERG PULLS A MILEY
Not one to miss out on a celeb selfie trend, Derek Blasberg got pal Pixie Geldof to snap him with his tongue wagging. In front of Erdem's live orchestra no less. Photo: pixiegeldof
SEE: Stars pulling a Miley Cyrus
BURBERRY TEASE US VIA TWITTER
Burberry has been tactfully tweeting close-ups of S/S '14 sketches ahead of the label's show at 2.30pm today. What can we decipher from these titbits? There will be rhinestones and rosy blooms on the catwalk. Just call us Sherlock. Photos: @Burberry
ROKSANDA ILINCIC'S BOW-WEARING BELLES
Thought neon was over? Roksanda Ilincic has other ideas. In the capable hands of London's colour-combo oracle, traffic cone orange, acid green and sunshine yellow somehow managed to scream elegance in the form of princess skirts with nipped-in waists and panelled, pleated kick hem dresses. A laser-cut silk tabard worn over a simple white tee and slim-cut black trousers was symptomatic of this collection's edgy take on femininity - and those flat patent Chelsea boots with bows will be everywhere next season. Ellie Pithers
Read Roksanda Ilincic's fool-proof guide on matching and clashing colours here
BUNNY EARS: THE NEW STREET STYLE MUST-HAVE?
Street stylista Yu Masui gave Telegraph Fashion the low down on which animal ears we should be wearing this season. With Victoria Beckham also tweeting a selfie of herself in bunny ears recently, we predict the fash pack will be hopping to Comme des Garcons to get their pointy ears soon. Yu's rabbit ear helmet will cost you £180.
BERARDI'S LESSON IN LUXE
"It's like, 'why not?'", said a relaxed Antonio Berardi backstage after the immaculately crafted collection he showed on top of a sunlight filled office block in Bishopsgate. And relaxed he may be - after all, Berardi has been doing this long enough and is a master of red carpet dressing. And this collection was an exercise in how to make a woman shine - whether in the sparkling sunlight that was flooding through the wall of windows, bouncing off the intricate embroideries and beadwork, and the extraordinary array of rich leopard patterned jacquards or the iridescent, croc textured oversized biker jackets and silver feather Devore silks that will look incredible when Gwyneth Paltrow makes an entrance wearing it on the red carpet.The fabrics were Luxe with a capital L, and the silhouettes big and slouchy, giving the collection a great sense of ease. "People think Berardi does super-sexy and body-con but this season, I like the oversized. But when it's on, there are underpinnings that are still body-con so when it's on it feels great against the body." Tamsin Blanchard
Photos: Getty
MATTHEW WILLIAMSON MATURES
Matthew Williamson's show at The Saatchi Gallery opened with the girls of the Capital Children's Choir delivering a euphoric ululation. It was a touching prologue for a designer whose show once opened with a performance by Prince and whose beautiful, aspirational clothes have sometimes seemed to be suited only to jet-set girls with the tanned, lithe limbs of the likes of Sienna Miller, who was seated front row.
But even Sienna's grown up and this season we saw a more mature, easy-to-wear collection that lost none of the joyful colour, print and exquisite embellishment that has made Williamson such a recognisable brand.
The first look was an easy coral trouser suit in a style and cut that was positively minimalistic for this designer. A bright Marimekko-style doodle flower print followed on long silky T-shirt dresses, embodying the cool, beach spirit of the brand without trying too hard.
There were printed shirt dresses, loose tiered shirts and sexy cigarette pants that could all find a place in a working wardrobe and a beautiful woven blue and white duster jacket to throw on over the matching loose shorts or a pair of jeans for that hint of the casually exotic.
The high ticket dresses - knee-length lace, embellished with flowers and crystal - were dreamy but also wearable. Williamson seems to be opening his arms wider to embrace the women who have long swooned over his clothes but perhaps felt they didn't have the prerequisite lifestyle. Now this designer is seeing how he can better fit into their lives. Kate Finnigan
SOPHIA'S WEB
Sophia Webster showed yet another quirky shoe collection, this time inspired by creepy crawlies - but pretty ones, of course. This meant super-high heels which stole both the patterns and shapes of butterfly wings with polka dots thrown in for good measure.
Models posed on an idyllic garden set, complete with 'flower beds' with their hair formed into antennae. Webster's signature naughty motifs were in full force and this season she asks us to 'Smack My Fanny Pack.' Naughty but very, very nice.
FASHION DILEMMAS
Biggest dilemma today? What to wear to go from Berardi at 9am to cocktails with Anna Wintour and sundry billionaire socialites. It quite preoccupied the frow last night. It's the kind of problem we're always solving for the readers (sort of). So why is it so hard in practice? Lisa Armstrong
CASASOLA'S CLASS
Brazilian designer Barbara Casasola is in the running for the Dorchester Fashion Prize, and with this masterful collection, it's not hard to see why. Good luck!
OH MR FORD...
BECKS BIKES INTO TOWN
Luke Leitch caught up with the 'busier than ever' footballer at the Belstaff store launch, as it was revealed he's been shot by Peter Lindbergh for the new advertising campaign. The handsome, retired footballer talked biking, designing and fashion week. Read all about it here
SAUNDERS'S BEST SHOW YET?
Our Telegraph Magazine style editor Sophie de Rosée certainly thought so. Read the show report here
DAY 3: SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 15
BIZARRE BEAUTY: WAR RAVAGED FACES AT VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
Westwood's favourite make-up artist Val Garland created yet another crazy cosmetic moment for spring/summer 2014. Known for her beautiful skin, something happens to her at Westwood, and her artist palette gets a mind of its own. We can't knock it for its creativity - each model was a unique masterpiece - but we shall be admiring the cracked porcelain, war ravaged complexions and post battle lipstick from afar.
MARY KATRANTZOU'S SHOE FETISH
A collection inspired by shoes? It may sound like a bit of an unlikely scenario but Mary Katrantzou took brogues, trainers and evening slippers as the basis for an amazing, magical romp through the designer's footwear fetish. "The type of shoe dictated the type of dresses," said Katrantzou backstage, dressed in her trademark black Alaia dress. So the evening slipper was a Roger Vivier bejewelled number, resulting in some incredible Lesage-embroidered, jewel-encrusted, floral lampshade dresses with a late fifties silhouette. The sneakers inspired a sportier edge with floral prints and aertex details, and the brogues represented the daywear section.
While the brogue-print dresses that kicked off the show were quite literal, with their oversized prints of punched leather, laces, and eyelets, the more abstract the prints, the better they worked - a jacket and shorts combo with giant laces placed over a shoulder was genius.
Mary Katrantzou has proved that she can create original prints from anything. And this collection was a big departure from her darker autumn/winter collection - and a real return to form.
Oh, and as for the shoes themselves, they were made by Gianvito Rossi and were high heels with intricate cut outs - technical feats in themselves, adorned in Katrantzou prints and enough to make a serious statement all on their own. Tamsin Blanchard
BEAUTY MOMENT: DREAM HAIR AT PAUL SMITH
Put simply, this is the kind of hair you wish you had, but don't. But satisfyingly for all its undone appeal, it was refreshingly 'done' by a team of super stylists under the leadership of hair great Sam McKnight, and using he says "a myriad of products." Inspired, like the collection, by Jane Birkin, it was "easy, laid back careless hair really," explained McKnight, "every girl was different - it wasn't a uniform. But what each had was healthy, sexy hair."
Far from laissez faire though, too straight they added kinks, too curly they ironed it out, too much volume they'd take it down, while others got a full blow-dry to add guts and movement. "We're trying to keep it as natural as possible," explained McKnight, whatever it takes. Photo: Sam McKnight
LILY'S DANCE FOR WESTWOOD
How did eco warrior Westwood hammer home her green morals this season? Postcards. The tiny flame haired designer popped up with collaborator Lily Cole at the end of the presentation and urged fashion's finest to show their 'voice' on postcards to the United Nations' secretary-general.
Talking of Lily, the model started Westwood's show by getting her interpretive dance shoes on. How said dance was affiliated with environmental justice or the clothing that followed, we're not sure. Though it did allow her to shake her head around in some impressively shaggy hair extensions.
The clothes, as always, were noticed second to Dame Vivienne's radical choice of make-up. This time, models wore an almost skull-like complexion from chalky foundation and black sooty swipes across cheeks and brows. Westwood's ultra ladylike silhouette reigned true with silky form-fitting dresses, skirt suits and a black jumpsuit that got viewers fidgeting and snapping. The climate revolution motif found its place on white tees underneath strapless metallic brocade dresses and on caps. Vivienne's penchant for ruffled layers meanwhile sought out new ground in silk scarves wrapped around legs.
Evening wear concentrated less on layers - nothing akin to Lily's Met ball dress here - and instead on green sequins with floral motifs. A new venture away from checks and into stripes was most pleasing from fashion's favourite campaigner. Alice Newbold. Photos: PA
NOT UNIQUE ENOUGH
Unique turned up and did its job today. If the job is to dress us for a week in Ibiza next summer. It was hard to see what else you might get out of this high summer holiday wardrobe. Jourdan Dunn (below, centre) looked drop-dead in an indigo spaghetti strapped maxi (no wonder Cara tried to cop a feel as they passed on the catwalk). We liked the Moroccan tile star print and loved the silver espadrilles and the nod to Isabel Marant boho but how many beach dresses does a woman really need? The denim story was disappointing and overall there weren't enough separates to get us excited. Sad to say it just wasn't unique enough today, Topshop. Kate Finnigan
IT'S MINI MOSS!
Yep, Kate Moss took her 10-year-old daughter Lila with her to the Topshop Unique show. It looks like she's inherited the same heart-shaped face as her famous mother.. we're sure it won't be that long 'til we see her on the catwalks...
MANOLO'S ENCORE
Manolo Blahnik made his cinema debut today with a little help from film maker Michael Roberts and actor Rupert Everett to showcase his 'Jealousy' collection.
A tale of Latin passion, the short film depicts a wonderfully camp Everett distraught after his glamorous wife trots off (in her Manolos) to a dim lit lounge bar where she tangoes the night away with handsome waiters.
Surreal at points (a chap in a mask does some fetishistic shoe caressing) the star of the show was of course Blahnik's beautiful collection.
Inspired by the turn of the century Spain there were some wonderful lace strappy numbers and impeccable courts with Matador-esque tassels. Embroidery adorned sandals with the thinnest of heels- Carrie Bradshaw would be squealing in delight!
Bravo Mr Blahnik; Encore! Encore! Frankie Graddon
PAUL SMITH'S RACY LADY
It's no bad thing that you normally know what to expect from Sir Paul when his show comes around - smart, super-flattering tailoring, a pop of colour, and overall a masculine look that still manages to be elegant. Tick, tick, tick - all present and correct today in the elegant trouser suits with their swishy, flared cut, the pink blazer trimmed in white and the navy jacket with supersized lapels. There was a touch of sexiness though - said navy jacket was worn with seemingly nothing on the bottom, and more flesh was on show thanks to several pairs of hot pants and a few mini dresses in checks and a gold/sky blue print that also popped up on a billowing silk dress and a shirt. This is undoubtedly the Paul Smith lady, but she's gone a little racier this season. Nick Barron
Tamsin Blanchard's five reasons to visit Estethica at the LFW Exhibition
1) It's in the same bit of Somerset House as New Gen so you might as well take a look while you are there - and last season Estethica designers took more orders in London than New Gen.
2) Bottletop. Wow! What an amazing bag collection in the most eye popping shades of yellow and green shiny enamel. Watch this space for their new campaign starring Victoria's Secret babe Candice Swanepoel, recently shot in Bahia, Brazil, where the bags are made from - you'd never guess - ring pulls from drinks cans.
3) Liora Lassalle's collection of distressed denim (pictured above) and screen printed hemp silk inspired by her recent trip to Brazil, which means the girl from Ipanema is officially a trend (see Clements Ribeiro yesterday). Liora's hot tropical fruit and veg prints are the result of a trip to an exotic fruit farm. The CSM graduate's first collection went on sale at Yoox.com this week. Expect to hear much more from her.
4) Tracy Mulligan's brilliant Atelier collection for People Tree. This is a new capsule collection of perfect pieces, using specially-commissioned hand woven fabrics, beautifully crafted in Bangladesh. Yes, you will want to buy the black and white bomber jacket and the soft pink waffle drop-waisted dress (I do, anyway) and it's fair trade too!
5) Great accessories. I've already mentioned Bottletop but Pachacuti has launched a small collection of bags alongside their established range of Panamas expertly hand woven in Ecuador, including a fantastic beach bag made out of hammock fabric and trimmed with richly woven ribbons. See also Sonya Kashmiri's beautifully plain vegetable tanned Italian leather clutches and bags in natural leather the colour of putty.
TO PANAMA WITH SMYTHSON
10 quirky collages by British artist Quentin Jones adorn the walls of Smythson's Bond St store. Inspired by the company's Panama diary, each of the pieces focuses on a figure, from past or present, exploring their relationship with Smythson. The list of subjects includes Sigmund Freud and Katharine Hepburn through to Kylie Minogue and Dita Von Teese. Pop in before September 22nd to take a look for yourself.
TIME FOR TEMPERLEY
Temperley is always a feast for the eyes and this season was no different.
Our backstage beauty expert had already told us that Lauren Hutton was the beauty inspiration so it's safe to say we we're more than a little excited about what was to come.
Starting with beautiful silk dresses and dress coats banded in various colours - shades of fucshia, pale pinks, cappuccino and black - there was a Fifties vibe that trickled through with A-line, trapeze and full trumpet silhouettes forming most of the collection.
A stand out piece was a full candy-pink skirt dappled with flowers and paired with a cerise trapeze top - the kind of thing we ache to see the Duchess wear.
Florals were the adornment of choice, whether in mirrored prints, embroidery or sparking embellishment. Leopard print came into play too, with a pink floral pattern melting into it, forming what are bound to be sell-out pieces come next summer.
Hutton's influence was seen in the beautifully bronzed but oh-so-natural beauty, the type that makes us normal people green eyed.
Meanwhile, plain gold and midi rings by young designer Daniella Draper nicely juxtaposed the collection's prettiness adding edge. Bibby Sowray
LUNCH WITH L'WREN
L'Wren Scott's Mustique-sojourning customers will love her new collection, which was inspired by a 16th century gold filigree screen she saw in a museum during a trip to Tokyo six years ago with her partner Mick Jagger, who was at the show yesterday lunch time. I really do mean lunch. Scott provides Bento boxes for her audience and once one gets past the self- consciousness of Eating In Front of Anna (Wintour), it's a tremendously uplifting experience.
But back to that Japanese screen. "Japanese women in the late 16th century were waiting for their men to come back from war and were prohibited from wearing their finery," Scott explained backstage. "So they would drape their best clothes over folding screens instead. I love that ritualistic approach to clothes."
Scott is a savvy editor of her own ideas. Some designers get carried away with their inspiration, but while her Obi belts, slashed kimono sleeves and thousands of hours worth of peony and wisteria embroidery were intricate, she never allowed them to overpower her signature fitted dresses, tight trousers and pencil skirts. The Japanese Geisha-meets-Hollywood results were really rather beautiful. Lisa Armstrong
JOURDAN'S CHICKEN STOP-OFF
Who knew peri peri sauce provided such crucial catwalk energy?
MUM'S THE WORD AT TEATUM JONES
Design duo Teatum Jones looked to their mothers for their S/S '14 collection, 'Jacquie and Mary Ellen'. Inspired by memories of domestic life we saw thick apron style straps on silky dresses, overblown tea towel checks realised on a high-shine mac (a real highlight) and 1950's housewife pinafore frocks.
"Our woman is a strong lady, not a ball breaker but she has an inner strength and who better to reflect that than our mums. We want to create clothing for busy modern women who still want to look contemporary and elegant."
This they certainly did. We saw the Teatum Jones's signature biker jackets in perforated white leather and laminated jacquard (wipe clean!) and their much loved silky shirt dresses reprised in a clashing check/floral print. Silk drapery cascaded down elegant sheath dresses evoking childhood memories of slung-over-the-shoulder tea towels.
A palette of lime, powder blue and white was fresh and Spring-y whilst injections of navy grounded the collection. A draped shirt and trouser combo in white and navy panels were easy wardrobe additions, while the floral bomber jacket will be a sure fire hit. Frankie Graddon
MOVING AT MULBERRY
Emma Hill's final collection before stepping down as creative director ended in great British style. From the British bulldog on the catwalk, to the soundtrack (a Madness-Queen- 'If you're happy and you know it clap your hands' mash-up), to the frow packed with English roses like Rebecca Hall, Juno Temple and Alexa Chung, right down to the collection's colour palette of red, white and blue. Cara Delevingne opened the show in the heart-lapelled floral jacquard Betty coat, then ensued sheer and opaque stripes on cropped trousers, A-line skirts, ladylike coats and oversized tees. Textures varied from leather shirts to silky pyjama trousers via sequins and velvet calf. The season's print - in red white and blue of course - was emblazoned in varying sizes across jacquard coats to silk dresses to the envelope clutch. The platform sandals were paired with Baywaters, Willow clutches and Kensal shoulder bags. The final song - Land of Hope and Glory - surely heightened emotions for Hill who took a teary final bow ending her turn at the Mulberry helm. View the full collection . Sophie de Rosee
MOPHIE: JUICE FOR PHONES
All that Tweeting, Instagraming and Vine-ing totally munches one's battery life to minus five per cent in all of about, two shows. So thank goodness for Mophie's rechargeable external battery cases, which you charge via USB and flick on and off as you need to spruce up battery life. It's our fashion week saviour.
A SERENADE WITH A DIFFERENCE
Outside the Claridge's Hotel, as show goers poured out from viewing Mulberry, a quintet playing courgettes and butternut squashes serenaded the crowds. No - we're honestly not making it up; it's amazing what you can do with hollowed-out veg and a carrot as a mouthpiece. The chaps from the London Vegetable Orchestra were on hand to promote Plenish, a range of cleansing drinks. FYI - the butternut squash makes a great tromobone, while a courgette is a good substitute for a trumpet.
EMILIA WICKSTEAD'S NEW GROOVE
Emilia Wickstead's show was a tale of two halves. On the one hand, there were classic Wickstead tailored shapes, reworked this season in an unlined crinkly, crease-proof silk and cotton mix fabric and a pastel palette. On the other, there were roomy trapeze dresses in loose striped linen, some with a train cut to skim the floor just so.
"This whole collection was about a girl who just gets out of bed, throws her hair back, doesn't have much make-up on and looks beautiful," said Wickstead backstage, surrounded by a Warhol, a Matisse and a Degas (the show was held at the Halcyon Gallery). "For summer usually I'd use quite light silks, but I wanted it to be soft so I used this amazing crease-proof fabric - perfect for throwing into a suitcase for travelling."
Of her diversion into crisp white denim, folded into clever pleats on the back of Fifties-style dresses, she said: "I was listening to Mississippi blues music and I wanted it to be a modern version of that era. You could see denim full skirts but it was a modern update, the Emilia Wickstead version."
So has the Emilia girl loosened up for spring/summer? "Yes - I wanted it to convey ease. Sometimes I get carried away with designs and forget about the weights of the fabrics but this is the kind of thing I want to wear in the heat. It's not too ladylike and traditional." Ellie Pithers
LOVING LAUREN
We're glad to see someone shares our love of Lauren Hutton. Backstage at Temperley London the actress's image is being used as inspiration for the beauty look. We can't wait to see it.
A MARGARET HOWELL MOMENT
The jaunty soundtrack at Margaret Howell set the summery tone for an easy breezy collection of pale linens, windowpane checks and ticking stripes. The house aesthetic of utilitarian tailoring was evident in the high-waisted belted shorts and the short sleeved shirting, some featuring a V-necked collar, others cropped at the waist. The strapless bodiced dresses were uncharacteristically daring for the designer, giving the collection a more youthful, feminine feel compared to past seasons' androgyny. Sleepwear appeared in cropped silk pyjama bottoms and ticking night shirts. The standout dresses of the collection were typically wearable in a Breton stripe to the knee, a navy with white dots and a blue chambray. Looks were topped off with straw trilbies and brown flat leather sandals. Our favourite? The perfect lightweight summer parka hands down. Sophie de Rosee
BUILD ME UP BUTTERCUP
Our favourite colour of next summer? Buttercup yellow, as seen at Emilia Wickstead where it was paired with the prettiest pink.
TAT'S AMORE, CARA
Speaking of Cara, the model appears to have added to her flourishing tattoo collection with a simple inking of her mother Pandora's name on her left bicep. Aww, sweet. Much better than a big red heart with a scroll bearing 'Mum' we think you'll agree. Delevingne visited artist Bang Bang, who is responsible for her three other tats, while she was in New York for fashion week. She'll be walking the runway at Mulberry so keep an eye out for her new artwork. See more, err, dodgy celebrity tattoos here .
Photo: @bangbangnyc/Instagram
BIZARRE BEAUTY: JUST OUT OF THE SEA HAIR AT MULBERRY
Cara Delevingne getting beached-up backstage
"Very, very beachy indeed," said Sam McKnight of the hair he created backstage on all 26 girls at Mulberry. And while it's not bizarre as such, so see such "gritty toughness," as McKnight described it, is a juxtaposition to the perennially pretty hair we've come to expect from British fashion brand Mulberry.
Spring/summer 2014 sees a Mulberry girl get caught in the rain, or walk straight out of the sea and forget to brush her hair - backstage it was a blowdry free zone as models let hair dry naturally while eating Claridges bacon baps. All that was used was Frederick Fekkai Texture Spray so that hair dried to a crisp, hard beachy look. It's "modern grunge, but it's sexy," confirmed McKnight. Katy Young
DANGER! HIGH MANOLOS
Manolo Blahnik is showing for the first time ever at London Fashion Week this morning, and thankfully blogger/journo Susie Bubble is keeping us well informed as to his new collection. These fine specimens are Mr Blahnik's favourite, he calls them "weapons of danger". Danger for our bank accounts more like. Photo: @susiebubble
RENOVATION INSPIRATION FOR PREEN
Sometimes the best holidays can be those spent at home. And rather than jet off to Miami this summer, Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi stayed put and set about renovating their house instead. Their collection this morning was therefore based on a "romantic notion of Miami", said Bregazzi backstage after the show. "It's about Art Deco buildings, sunlight, shadows, layers of colours, heat."
This was a shapeshifting collection. Hemlines rose and fell, some chopped and folded into hard modernist lines, others trailing and wispy. Kitschy rose prints and hard geometric shapes merged into one another. Layers of pink nylon - what Thornton confirmed was "cellophane" - took the form of parkas, strapped to the shoulders with silver buckles and left to blow out like a parachute as the models walked, providing a contrast to the tight, short dresses underneath.
The patterns were partially inspired by their domestic renovations. Bregazzi said that the florals were the result of shopping for curtain material, while those punchy bright interlocking hexagons were a nod to their new parquet flooring. "We are trying to create a fresh feeling of lightness in our house, whilst keeping it minimal at the same time - and we felt the same way about our clothes," Bregazzi explained.
Will they ever get that Miami holiday? "I do want to go..." Bregazzi said wistfully, "but I'm worried it will kill the dream." Ellie Pithers. Photos: Getty
ELSEWHERE...
Cara Delevingne played host to her fashionable friends at the newly launched EDITION hotel last night. The model swapped catwalks for tables as she and Jourdan Dunn (left) partied with Kate Moss, Daphne Guinness, Alexander Wang, Georgia Jagger, Daisy Lowe and co. until the early hours. Photo: Rex
LONGCHAMP'S LEADING LADIES
Alexa, Zoe, Suki, Kate, Georgia and Lily lit up Regent Street at the launch party of the new Longchamp store. Tourists formed a huge crowd outside the store as flashbulbs went crazy for these belles. See who else has been in town grabbing some fashionable action
MULBERRY'S MOOD
Ahead of creative director Emma Hill's final show for Mulberry, the British brand has sent out a sneak peek of the spring/summer 2014 collection's theme. With Julie Christie, black cabs, flowers and tea parties featured on the moodboard it looks like were set for a corker of a last hurrah from Hill. Don't forget to read our interview with Hill here to find out what's next for her
BEAUTY MOMENT: NICOLL'S MINIMALIST MODEL MAKE-UP
"The girls need personality and individuality. It's not meant to be uniformed," explained Gucci Westman, Revlon's global artistic director, on Richard Nicoll's refreshing approach to beauty. "It's quite a lived-in look. Deconstructed and minimal, nothing is precise," she said as she pressed on Skinlights in Bronze, Creme Blush in Flush and Powder Bronzer in Bronzilla all by Revlon.
"Like make up from the night before," Westman explained (and as we detected a trend as we'd seen the same theme at Holly Fulton), she described how she applied make-up and then almost began taking it off each model. Using only concealer as a base if models needed it, this was "clean, beautiful" make up - "sporty, cool, no glamour, individual beauty," said Westman. "This isn't about an army, or sea of the same thing - these girls are who they are." Katy Young
RICHARD NICOLL'S SUMMER WITHOUT COLOUR
Richard Nicoll showed a sharp, assured, wonderfully desirable collection which he referred to backstage as being a bit of a 'retrospective subconsciously.' All the best bits of Richard Nicoll were there: the tomboyish masculinity, the lightness of texture and touch in the form of a specially woven houndstooth organza polyester jacquard he used to great affect in a new high-summer take in the biker jacket. There were soft layers, easy sleeveless coats, clean cotton piqué dresses, pretty tiered dresses with spaghetti straps in sumptuous bubblegum pink, and boyish cotton knits and great boyfriend jackets. To offset the functional pieces, there was a sprinkling of glitter in stripy cool wool sweater dresses and Lurex threads giving a bomber jacket a touch of magic.
Nicoll explained he wanted to 'approach summer without colour' and looked to black and white images of the New York street photographer, Gary Winogrand which added a Sixties feel to the silhouettes.
'I'm feeling very relaxed,' he said. 'I wanted the collection to have a sense of ease and be really believable. The way the pieces slot together should be very modular.' if you're lucky enough to have any Richard Nicoll pieces already, you will have no problems adding to your wardrobe next summer. The only problem will be having to wait that long. Tamsin Blanchard
GETTING DOWN WITH BROWNS
After a long day of shows we headed to the Browns Focus re-launch party in collaboration with Brian Lichtenberg, where we browsed the latest collections as "Homies" T-shirt-clad bar staff served Patron-based cocktails. We spotted Kate Nash sipping on an espresso martini whilst the margaritas proved popular. As the night progressed, the crowd migrated towards the dance floor where DJ Seb Chew played out a mix of Nineties and Noughties hip hop and R&B. The mix proved potent and the originally aloof crowd could be seen getting down to the tunes of R. Kelly. We spotted Eliza Doolitle and co. making shapes whilst those all twerked-out could rejuvenate with a 'focus' shot, a shot of espresso mixed with, wait for it... more tequila! Tallulah Bullock
KNITTY GRITTY WITH MARK FAST
Mark Fast - the man who made knitwear not just cool, but also sexy - did not cease to disappoint is his hotly anticipated show. Fast, who often cites music as inspiration chose the Nineties as his soundboard this season. Models stormed the catwalk in black webbed body-con dresses teamed with matrix style glasses, black lipstick and chokers. Think Courtney Love circa 1994. Grunge gave way to rave complete with acid yellow hues and turquoise fringing. Particularly of note was a mermaid-esque fringed maxi dress and a very chic pair of knitted trousers. Yes, knitted trousers. They don't call him the king of knitwear for nothing you know. Tallulah Bullock. Photos: Getty
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